If you want to see staggering mountains, amazing wildlife and polar bears, then you have to visit Svalbard. Despite being 60% glaciers and having only 2,900 people, there’s a shocking amount to do and see. Since you’re traveling so far north – just 500 miles south of the North Pole – it’s tempting to cram everything you can possibly do into a single trip.
Unfortunately, it’s impossible. Svalbard is so far north that it’s nighttime for nearly one half of the year, then daytime for the other half. This dramatic difference dictates both the activities you can do and the landscape you’ll see.
In our post on planning your trip to Svalbard, we detail the pros and cons of going in the light season versus the dark season. We also share the best time of year to visit so as to maximize your activity options. In this post, we’ll lay out the itinerary that best captures all Svalbard has to offer in our favorite season.
What’s Included:
- Where is Svalbard?
- Where should I stay in Svalbard?
- Will I see the northern lights in Svalbard?
- What tours are available in Svalbard?
- Five must-see attractions in Svalbard
- Five-day itinerary for Svalbard
- How to extend your time in Svalbard
Where is Svalbard?
Svalbard is an archipelago in the Arctic Ocean. Its main town, Longyearbyen, sits at 78-degrees north, making it the northernmost year-round inhabited town on earth. It’s a jurisdiction of Norway, but allows anyone of any nationality to live there so long as they can prove they have the means to support themselves.
While Svalbard is an archipelago, most of the places you’ll visit are easily accessible by land. That being said, there are some amazing cruises you can take in the summer season if you have your heart set on birdwatching and spotting some whales. We discuss these in our article on starting to plan your trip.
The main settlement in Svalbard is Longyearbyen. With the only passenger airport in the area, you’ll definitely be stopping through there during your trip. There are a few other towns, but they are either company mining towns or research stations. Longyearbyen itself was a company mining town, but has since diversified into the base for tourism in the area.
Do be aware that Longyearbyen is a true frontier town. There are few amenities, only a couple of stores selling essentials, and most items are even more expensive than in Norway because pretty much everything is flown in from the mainland. Don’t let this daunt you. Visiting Svalbard is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that feels truly off-the-beaten track.
Where Should I Stay in Svalbard?
When you visit Svalbard, you’ll likely be staying in many different lodges. The distance between places is so vast (and conditions so unforgiving) that you’ll severely limit yourself if you choose to base yourself solely in Longyearbyen. While there are plenty of awesome day trips from Longyearbyen, to really immerse yourself in the best Svalbard has to offer you need more travel time than a day excursion can allow.
For this reason, we recommend booking a multi-day tour that takes you outside of Longyearbyen and into the Arctic wilderness. Trust us, we’re tour-phobes as well, but a tour is essential for getting the most out of your trip. Outside of Longyearbyen all people are required to carry a gun with them at all times in case they come across a polar bear. While you could get a permit (which takes six weeks to process), booking onto a tour with a knowledgeable guide is the better, simpler option.
While many tours will pre-select your accommodation in Longyearbyen, if you have the choice we recommend Basecamp Hotel Longyearbyen. The cozy lodge-style decoration projects the charm and romance of early arctic explorations. Be sure to check out the lounge nestled in the eaves on the second floor, which has sky lights for spotting the aurora during winter or getting a bit of sun during summer. We also loved the breakfast spread (Emilia recommends the gjetost and waffles), plus the front desk will treat you to a steaming mug of trapper’s brew (mulled cider) when you return from your trip.
However, if you prefer the clean Scandinavian aesthetic, check out Funken Lodge. Located towards the edge of the town, it has a modern bar, large library room, and excellent views over Longyearbyen. You will need to walk a little further to get to other restaurants and “downtown”, but the service and comfortably appointed rooms make up the difference.
There is one big-name hotel in Longyearbyen, the Radisson. While it offers consistent quality with other Radisson hotels, we don’t recommend staying here. You’ve come this far north, don’t waste the experience by staying somewhere that you could find down south!
Will I See the Northern Lights in Svalbard?
Although you would think that Svalbard is a great place to see the aurora, it is actually too far North for the best sightings. If the aurora is on your must-see list as part of your Svalbard trip, stop in Tromsø, Norway for the best sightings.
What Tours are Available in Svalbard?
Given that we believe going on a tour is essential for the best trip to Svalbard, we advise really taking time to dig into what you’re interested in and what you want your tour to offer.
Alex adores visiting abandoned towns, so a trip to Pyramiden (an old Soviet mining town) was a must. Emilia wanted to spend a lot of time looking at snow, so we knew that snowmobiling would match our needs.
Ultimately, we chose to do a three-day snowmobiling excursion with Basecamp Explorer. This is an awesome company that operates tours in Svalbard and the Masai Mara, all of which have a deep focus on sustainability. They offer year-round departures and itineraries (scroll down to see ours), so you’re sure to find something to fit your needs.
We also loved that they have experienced guides who know the area and are well equipped to deal with anything. Your guide will teach you how to confidently ride a snowmobile and will wake you if there’s a late night polar bear sighting so that you don’t miss a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. They also carry all the food you’ll need on the road, which means less worry for you!
Five Must-See Svalbard Attractions
Honestly, we struggled to pick our top sights because we loved everything! There’s not a lot of traditional sights to see in Svalbard. A trip here is really more about soaking up the atmosphere, whether that’s from a snowmobile ride or a walk through Longyearbyen. That being said, these are the experiences we think every trip should include:
- Visit the Svalbard Museum in Longyearbyen. Learn about the area’s history, from exploration to mining to tourism. Plus, take your photo with a taxidermied polar bear!
- Explore Pyramiden. Walk through the abandoned buildings of this old Soviet mining town, which also boasts the northernmost bust of Lenin. Having lunch in the Soviet-era cafe and hotel is also a must-do (plus, it has one of the few flushing toilets in this part of the archipelago!)
- Take a nature walk. Once you get outside of Longyearbyen, it’s empty space as far as you can see. With an experienced guide, taking a walk through this area is unbelievable. We’re still talking about our walk through an ice cave. No photo can do the luminescence you see inside justice.
- Buy a souvenir featuring a polar bear or “78 degrees north”. Cheesy? Absolutely! But you’ve made it all this way, we think it would be foolish not to commemorate it with a one-of-a-kind souvenir. Emilia still uses her polar bear-emblazoned Svalbard mug everyday.
- Take a photo with the polar bear sign. At the airport, before you jump on the bus to take you to your hotel, stop for a moment to snap a portrait with the polar bear sign. A rite of passage for the Svalbard visitor!
The Perfect Five-Day Svalbard Itinerary
Day One: Arrive & Tour Longyearbyen
Morning
You’ll arrive in Longyearbyen from Oslo or Tromsø in the morning, usually around 11am. Grab your luggage from the conveyor belt, where you’ll spot your first polar bear sculpture watching over the suitcases. From there, you’ll find buses right outside the exit that will whisk you away to your hotel. You’ll pay about 75 NOK (about $8 USD) for a bus ticket.
We do not advise walking to Longyearbyen. It is a three mile hike and there could be polar bears, so if you do it, you should be armed.
Once you arrive at your hotel, ask immediately if they can book your dinner reservations. We highly advise Restaurant Kroa, located in the heart of town. Longyearbyen doesn’t have many food options, and most people going to restaurants are tourists who need to eat, so booking ahead is essential. Don’t be put off by times that seem too late. If you’re visiting in our favorite season, the sun will be out for far longer than you’re used to, which will provide a needed energy jolt.
Afternoon
After dropping off your bags at your hotel, head down into the centre of town to grab some lunch. Food is expensive in Longyearbyen – it takes a lot to fly ingredients up from the mainland! Rather than splurge on a restaurant lunch, head to Fruene Kaffe Og Vinbar, which is located in the main shopping center. Alongside sandwiches and soups, they also make their own chocolate, which is definitely worth it for a post-lunch treat.
Once you’ve refuelled, head down to the Svalbard Museum, which is at the end of the main avenue overlooking the water. Here you’ll spend anywhere between thirty minutes to an hour learning about the history of the archipelago and how it’s using tourism to fuel future, sustainable development.
From there, it’s time to go on a walking tour of the city. We offer a photo-led itinerary in our post on the best things to do in Longyearbyen, but for a quick recap of the highlights, we advise seeing the Svalbard Kirke (church), port, colorful row houses and old mining outpost.
This is also a great time to pick up postcards and stamps to mail back home. Outdated? You’re sending a postcard from the Arctic Circle!
Evening
Depending on when you were able to snag your reservation, either get ready for your meal, or head over to Svalbar for a pre-dinner drink. Svalbar serves locally-brewed beer, as well as basic cocktails. If you haven’t managed to snag a dinner reservation, they also have reliably good pizzas and specials.
After dinner, it’s time to head back to your hotel to slap on that sleep mask (one of our packing musts for a summertime trip). The light may still be out, but the town tends to keep to a normal schedule year-round.
Day Two: Pick Up Provisions & Head Out on a Tour
Morning
Most tours leave around 10am, giving you time in the morning to have a leisurely breakfast and swing by the supermarket on the main avenue to pick up any small snacks or drinks you’ll want with you. Your guide will also be well-equipped and bring all of the food for your group, so there’s no worry if you can’t stop. But as Alex knows, there’s nothing like a Haribo gummy snack when you get a break on your snowmobile ride.
This is also a good time to re-pack your bag if you’re going on a snowmobile tour, where you’ll likely be limited to what you can carry on the back of your snowmobile. This is usually a single small backpack, which should be able to hold all your essentials. You will also have an opportunity to repack at your tour group’s office, and they will be able to store your larger bag or suitcase while you are away. If you’re concerned, check out our comprehensive packing list for your trip to Svalbard.
When your guide picks you up from your hotel, you’ll head over to their HQ for a tour briefing, where you’ll also pick up the rest of the equipment you’ll need to complete the tour safely. We adored the giant snowmobile suits – they are loaded with pockets and extremely comfortable. You’ll also receive special snow boots and leather gloves, which are essential for protecting your extremities from the cold on a snowmobile.
Afternoon
This is where the fun happens! After a quick snowmobile driving lesson down Longyearbyen’s “super highway” (which is really just a frozen-over fjord), you’ll follow your guide out into the Arctic wilderness. Along the way you’ll likely see seals, reindeer and barely anyone else. When we started out driving, we were worried about being bored, but the landscape is so absorbing that hours will pass by without you noticing.
Sooner or later, your guide will spot someplace where you can stop for an al fresco lunch. This usually consists of dehydrated camping meals, saaft, and some frozen chocolate (chilled Ritter Sport bars will forever remind Emilia of this trip). After that, it’s back on your snowmobile to complete the rest of the drive out to the lodge.
Evening
By the time you get to your lodge, it’s likely to be later than you expect. After a day of snowmobiling, all you’ll want to do is relax! Our lodge had spectacular views for watching the light move across the snow and attempting to spot polar bears. We also had access to a sauna.
Dinner is included, and we were lucky enough to have the lodge-keeper cook for us. Alcohol is not included, but the lodge may stock a few basics: beer, bottles of wine and one or two liquors. Try the Gammel Dansk, if you dare.
Before you go to sleep your group will agree on a set wake-up time so you can set your alarm. This is essential as the midnight sun means your body clock is a bit less reliable than usual.
Day Three: Visit Pyramiden & Explore the Wilderness
Morning
Breakfast is pretty standard, but you can expect coffee, crispbread, cheese and cured meats – that is, the same spread you’ll find most everywhere else in Norway.
After breakfast is the best time to take a walk around the area. If it’s not programmed into your itinerary, it’s time to beg your guide! We found that, although we signed up for a tour with a set itinerary, the small group format meant it was quite flexible to our desires.
For example, on our morning of day three we went out to a nearby glacier to collect water for the lodge. We then hiked through an ice cave and took a short walk around the property. In all it took about an hour and was a magical experience. The silence you’ll experience here is like no other!
Afternoon
Before lunch, it’s time to head out to Pyramiden. You can spot it from the lodge, but distances are deceiving in Svalbard and what looks to be a quick walk across a frozen lake is actually almost 10 mile away. The drive is very easy, so if you’re with someone who’s a hesitant snowmobile driver (cough Emilia cough), this is the perfect time to give them the reins while you sit back and enjoy the view.
Lunch is the first stop, which takes place in the main hotel. This is the only building in Pyramiden that’s still in operation and walking inside is like walking into a Soviet-era time capsule. The food is reasonably tasty, but we probably enjoyed the ultra-sweet chocolates at the end of the meal most of all. This is also the only time you’ll have a flushing toilet after you leave Longyearbyen – revel in the luxury!
After lunch, it’s time to take a tour of the grounds led by one of the Russians who oversees the hotel. The tour will take you around the grounds (though not into the mining zone) and inside a few buildings. The main building is the social center, which has an amazing atmosphere for taking photos. The abandoned interiors bear striking resemblance to scenes in Pripyat. Bonus: you’ll tick off another polar bear with the glittering mosaic on the second level.
Evening
Depending on when you finish, you might have time for some more exploration on snowmobile or on foot. Otherwise it’s back to the lodge to relax. This is the perfect time to go into the sauna, or mix yourself up a Gammel Dansk and soda.
Day Four: Return to Longyearbyen
Morning
After breakfast, it’s time to head back to Longyearbyen. We know, we didn’t want it to end either! Depending on the weather, you may get lucky and be able to take an alternate route back. We were fortunate enough to. Of course, if by fortunate enough you mean that we drove on top of a glacier that was so bumpy Emilia yelped out loud at one point, causing Alex to suddenly stop the snowmobile and see if everything is okay… (Emilia swears this was her favorite part of the journey).
Afternoon
It will be late afternoon by the time you are back outside Longyearbyen. If the trip went faster than anticipated, ask your guide to take you up the mountains that face the town (across Adventfjorden). The area is only accessible by snowmobile and offers amazing views over the town and across the fjord. If it’s a clear day, you’ll be able to see miles in both directions. Look towards the airport and see if you can spot the iconic entrance to the Global Seed Repository, nestled back against the mountains.
Evening
Once you return your gear, it’s time to head back to the hotel to relax. Again, remember to ask your hotel about dinner reservations. We weren’t able to snag any and opted for Svalbar. Pizza and beer was the perfect post-snowmobile tour replenishment.
Day Five: Departure
Morning
Now, it’s time to get ready to leave Svalbard. Spend your morning tying up loose ends such as repacking and buying those polar bear or “78 degrees north” souvenirs. While we wouldn’t advocate for such cheesy souvenirs under normal circumstances (we’re all about those one-of-a-kind finds), going on such a one-of-a-kind adventure deserves being commemorated.
There’s usually only one flight per day out of Longyearbyen, and be sure to ask the front desk when the bus to the airport leaves. If you haven’t gotten a photo with the polar bear sign, now’s the time.
How to extend your time in Svalbard
If you are budgeting more than 5 days in Svalbard and want to plan back to back tours or some additional activities there are several options worth considering:
- Visit Barentsburg, the second largest settlement in Svalbard. Note the differences between this historically Soviet company town and Longyearbyen, a historically Norweigian company town. Be sure to check out the museum, the bust of Lenin (the second most Northern after Pyramiden, in case you are counting), and the local ArtArctic gallery.
- Travel beyond Barentsburg to Isfjord Radio, a coastal radio and weather station in the far west of Svalbard. Stay in the Basecamp Explorer-run hotel and keep your eyes peeled for polar bears against the massive mountains. Stop in the sauna which has floor to ceiling windows over the rocky ocean coastline.
- Learn to mush on a dog sled ride, either as a day trip from Longyearbyen or as a multi-day tour to one of the nearby settlements or camps.
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