Two Day Itinerary for Desenzano Del Garda and Sirmione in Italy’s Lake Region

Nestled on the southwestern shore of Italy’s stunning Lake Garda, Desenzano del Garda is a charming spot that blends summertime relaxation with rich history. It is an ideal destination for anyone looking to easily (and affordably) experience Italy’s lake district. It’s also remarkably accessible and a perfect waypoint for travelers exploring Northern Italy. 

Desenzano del Garda is the largest town on the shores of Lake Garda and in antiquity was also one of the largest Roman towns in the region. The surroundings of Desenzano are relatively flat, although it lies just 10 miles from the foothills of the alps to the north. This gives Desenzano the vibe of a beach town. It’s a different atmosphere than the dramatic mountains you might see in Bellagio and Como, but it’s still plenty picturesque.

What’s Included:

• Where is Desenzano del Garda?
• How Do I Get to Desenzano del Garda?
• How Long Should I Spend in Desenzano del Garda?
• Where Should I Stay in Desenzano del Garda?
• Two day Itinerary for Desenzano del Garda
• How to Extend Your Time Around Desenzano del Garda

Where is Desenzano del Garda?

Desenzano del Garda sits at the southern end of Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy, within the northern region of Lombardy. It lies 21 miles west of Verona and 17 miles east of Brescia, the two nearest neighboring major cities. As it relates to northern Italy’s lakes, Lake Garda is the easternmost and southernmost lake. Due to Desenzano being geographically between major cities, and itself a major town relative to those around Lake Garda, it is well connected by road, rail, and even by boat (if arriving from elsewhere on the lake).

How Do I Get to Desenzano del Garda?

Desenzano is easy to reach by car, train, bus, or boat. Desenzano sits directly off of the A4 (also E70) highway, part of the Italian national highway system. Buses to Desenzano depart from Brescia’s Via Solferino Bus Terminal or from Verona’s Porta Nuova Train Station. However, as both of these bus terminals are also directly adjacent to train stations, we recommend taking a Freccia (high speed) or Trenord (local) train, either of which will whisk you to Desenzano in just15 to 25 minutes. These same trains can also take you to Desenzano from further-flung locations including Milan or Venice.

If you are staying elsewhere on Lake Garda then you can visit Desenzano by boat. Lake Garda has a government-managed ferry service, which connects 26 different towns along the coast. Boats arrive to and depart from Desenzano to Padenghe and Sirmione, and continue on to destinations further up the lake. Fast boat service (servizio rapido) will take you from Riva, which is 32 miles away on the north shores of the lake, to Desenzano (calling at about ten towns between) in about 3 hours.

How Long Should I Spend in Desenzano del Garda?

Desenzano del Garda has a number of unique historical sites and can be an excellent jumping off point to visit other attractions around the southern end of Lake Garda. If you plan to stay in Desenzano, we recommend spending at least two days to take in what Desenzano has to offer and to make a day-trip to the nearby town of Sirmione. If you want to see more of the attractions around the southern end of Lake Garda you could extend your time to three or four days, and we provide some ideas for this extended trip at the end of this itinerary.

Where Should I Stay in Desenzano del Garda?

There are a variety of accommodation options in Desenzano del Garda, with many catering to summer tourists. Despite being directly on a body of water, many hotels have pools, since the shores of the lake are quite rocky. We recommend one of these excellent options:

• Hotel Piccola Vela: This small and serene hotel sits just outside of the old town of Desenzano. One of the more upscale options (4-stars), the hotel boasts a roof-top jacuzzi tub, a traditional in-ground pool, and a more relaxed wading pool within an interior courtyard garden. The service is top notch, the breakfast is delicious, and the garden gives you a wonderful place to relax after a day of sightseeing.
• Villa Pioppi: Villa Pioppi (3-stars) is in Sirmione, not Desenzano. However, it is a short bus or boat ride to Desenzano and is directly on the lake edge. The tasteful gardens, historic building, and expansive patios exude a quintessential Northern Italy lake vacation vibe. Take care to not spend your entire time sitting lake-side with a book and an Aperol Spritz.
• Hotel Bonotto: A modern and chic hotel located just outside of the city center, with rooftop and balcony views of the lake. Hotel Bonotto (3-stars) is just 2 minutes walking from the lake and Desenzano’s greatest attraction, the Villa Romana. The hotel features some game-room activities (pinball and foosball) as well as a roof-top sauna and jacuzzi.

Two Day Itinerary for Desenzano del Garda

Day One

Morning

Arrive at your hotel. If taking the train, note that the city center is a 15 minute walk from the train station (and the aforementioned hotels only 20 minutes walk, except for Villa Pioppi) and the entire route is downhill. 

After dropping off your bags at your hotel, head for the Villa Romana, which opens around 9am on all days but Sunday. The Villa Romana is the gem of Desenzano. It is a first century Roman Villa whose extensive mosaic floors are miraculously preserved. This outdoor museum allows you to walk directly over the mosaics for an incredible up-close view. You can also see the in-floor heating system added to some rooms in later renovations of the house. This attraction will likely take you between one and two hours to fully appreciate, and buying tickets ahead of time is not necessary.

Afternoon

Take lunch in the town center, around the Piazza Cappelletti or Piazza Giuseppe Malvezzi (we recommend Ristorante Caffè Italia). If your timing lines up, plan to visit Isola del Garda. Isola del Garda is a privately owned island with extensive gardens and a magnificent house. Trips leaving from Desenzano are on Wednesdays at 1:15pm, or on Sundays at 11:10am. The boat leaves from the end of one of the piers along the north edge of the harbor so plan an extra 10 minutes to walk from the lakeshore out along the breakwater then down to the boat. The boat ride takes approximately one hour and gives you an opportunity to see the shoreline of Lake Garda. Try to get a seat on the back of the boat, as the indoor seats can get very hot and do not have as good of a view. 

Book your tickets ahead of time through the website, noting that they cover the round trip boat, a tour of the island and house, and a free wine and olive oil tasting at the end of the tour. Time spent in and around the house is limited due to the high volume of tours and the fact that this is still a privately owned and lived in residence. But after the tour concludes you will have time to walk through the mostly forested western end of the island before your departure back to Desenzano. Expect the entire tour, including the boat ride there and back, to take about 3.5 hours.

If you have the energy, finish off your sightseeing for the day by visiting the Castle of Desenzano. The Roman fort, rebuilt into a castle in the 15th century, provides insight into the history of Desenzano. There are excellent views of the lake and surrounding area from the keep above the entrance gate. Note that the castle has very limited hours during winter but is generally open until 6:30pm during summer. Tickets do not need to be bought in advance.

For an aperitivo and dinner there are a variety of good options throughout the old town. First stop at any bar around Piazza Cappelletti for an early evening Aperol Spritz or Hugo (a sparkling cocktail made with prosecco, elderflower liqueur and mint).

Follow that by finding a spot for dinner around Porto Vecchio, the port of the town built during the Venetian era (15th century). For an exceptional tasting menu, get reservations at MoS Ristorante. The exquisite prix fixe menu focuses on seasonal ingredients and is as much visual art as it is delicious and wholesome food. For an upscale, albeit slightly stuffy and formal experience, we recommend Esplanade, a one Michelin star restaurant directly on the lake edge. The menu can be taken as a prix fixe or a la carte. We recommend a la carte and focusing on the pastas and seafood dishes, paired with a recommended bottle of wine.

Day Two

Morning

Take breakfast at your hotel and then take a stroll along the well-manicured waterfront. If you prefer to have breakfast out (and are up for a slightly longer walk) we recommend heading from the old town towards the east down Via Tommaso dal Molin, which becomes Viale Motta, and then Viale F. Agello until you reach NOSE. The freshly baked pastries and Scandi-chic interior are a tasty and calming way to get your day started.

The focus of this day is Sirmione, a town just to the east of Desenzano which has several interesting ancient sites of its own. The town center of Sirmione is situated just below the Sirmio peninsula which divides the south end of Lake Garda into two lobes. The town of Sirmione extends to the northern tip of the peninsula. The tip of the peninsula is a separate island, connected to the peninsula by two small bridges. For our purposes, when we refer to Sirmione we will be talking about this island, which extends from Sirmione Castle to the north.

To get to Sirmione you can take either ferry or bus. The LN026 bus runs from the Desenzano train station towards the old town and then heads east along Via Guglielmo Marconi and Via Tommaso dal Molin, then circling north up the peninsula to terminate at the Piazzale Porto, just outside of the old town of Sirmione. This bus ride takes about 25 minutes and the bus runs approximately once per hour. Alternatively, the ferry from Desenzano to Sirmione leaves from the Desenzano harbor pier which is directly across from Piazza Giacomo Matteotti. The ferry runs frequently in the morning (at 8:00am, 8:20am, and 8:55am) and then about once per hour for the rest of the day.

Your first stop in Sirmione is the Castello Scaligero di Sirmione, or more simply Sirmione Castle. This imposing 13th century castle controls the only bridges connecting the island tip of the Sirmio peninsula to the mainland. Built by the Della Scala family from Verona in the 13th and 14th centuries, and later controlled by the Venetian Republic from the 15th century, this castle has both remained remarkably intact and been expertly restored (as of 2018). The castle’s most notable feature is its fortified port, of which it is the only surviving example of its kind. You can climb the castle’s central keep for views out over the lake and Sirmione.

Afternoon

Take lunch in one of the piazzas of Sirmione. We recommend Hotel Pace Ristorante, which offers a garden setting overlooking the lake and an outdoor brick oven from which they dispatch a wide variety of pizzas. Try not to linger too long at lunch as there is still lots to see in Sirmione.

Working your way through the piazzas and side streets, make your way to Via Antiche Mura and head east, passing the back side of Parrocchia di Santa Maria Maggiore. Head down towards the beach and to your left until you are on the Passeggiata delle Muse, which is an elevated footpath along the lake edge taking you north towards the tip of the peninsula. Take in the lake and birds as you amble into a beach club, known as Spiaggia Lido delle Bionde. Take a left past the beachfront building up into the olive grove above the beach and join the Via Caio Valerio Catullo. Take a right and follow this road north until you arrive at the entrance of Grotte di Catullo e Museo Archeologico di Sirmione, which we will just call the Grottoes of Catullus.

The Grottos of Catullus are a must-see attraction. These absurdly huge ruins are all part of a first-century Roman villa. (Ironically the ruins are neither grottos, a misnomer from travelers who mistook the buildings to be caves, nor did they belong to Catullus, a 1st century poet who died before the villa was built.) The size and scope of these ruins is best appreciated by walking through them, being sure to descend into the northern section where the foundations rise over 50 feet above your head. Also take in the extensive olive groves which sit at the center of the site covering the area which used to be the gardens of the villa. Visiting the site and perusing the museum – which has an extensive collection of Roman artifacts and an in-depth explanation of many Roman sites which have been found in the surrounding lake waters – will take at least two hours.

After finishing at the Grottoes of Catullus, head back towards Sirmione with a stopover at Chiesa di San Pietro in Mavino. From the entrance of the Grottoes of Catullus, head south along Via Caio Valerio Catullo and immediately after the first hotel on your right, take a right down Via Cesare Arici then take your next available right at Via S. Pietro which will wrap around to the front of the church. This church dates back to the 8th century and contains frescos from the 12th through 16th centuries. Upon leaving the church, circle around to the back and exit via the footpath back onto Via Cesare Arici where you will turn right and head south back to Sirmione.

If time permits, stay for dinner in Sirmione. For an elevated meal try La Rucola 2.0 which boasts one Michelin star and offers modern cuisine with a focus on fish, or Ristorante Risorgimento, which also features mostly seafood. For a more reasonably priced dinner option and a more relaxed setting, try Osteria Al Torcol or Il Girasole, both of which offer much more traditional Italian menu fixings including pastas, fishes, and meats. Wrap up your day with a gelato as you wait for your ferry or bus back to Desenzano. (If you head back to Desenzano for dinner, follow our recommendations above for some dinner options.)

How to Extend Your Time Around Desenzano del Garda

Desenzano also makes for an excellent base to explore other southern areas of Lake Garda. We recommend any of the following as day trip options to extend your time around Desenzano.

• Hike around Rocca di Manerba: Rocca di Manerba is a park and reserve around the ruins of a medieval castle and church. The ruins themselves are only moderately impressive but the well-marked hiking trails in the surrounding area provide an excellent opportunity to get outdoors and take in some scenic views. To reach Manerba simply take the ferry from Desenzano to Manerba (via Sirminoe and Moniga). Note that the ferries connecting Desenzano and Maberba do not run as frequently as ferries to other towns.
  
  As you walk up Via Giosuè Carducci road from the ferry pier, just before the first hairpin bend in the road, cut off to the right to begin your hike into the park. Take lunch or a snack at either the Marina Lounge Bar or Osteria Da Marì con cucina, both around the ferry pier.

• Visit Gardaland or Movieland: If you’re traveling with kids, give them a break from stuffy cultural attractions with a trip to an amusement park. They’re a short drive away from Desenzano, or accessible via train to Peschiera del Garda and then bus 438 or 164 north. For those looking for classic roller coasters and rides similar to Disneyland, stop at Gardaland. Within its walls is a new mini Legoland, and just outside of the parking lot is a small aquarium with an ocean tunnel. For those seeking a more themed set of attractions (akin to Disney Hollywood Studios, formerly MGM Studios, in Florida), Movieland is the place for you. Complete with rides themed after many classic movies, its own Medieval Times, and what can best be described as Disneyland’s Main Street USA but in Italy.

• See the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Peschiera del Garda: Peschiera del Garda is a fortified town built at the mouth of the Mincio river, which is an outflow for the waters of Lake Garda. The town dates from Roman times but the fortifications were installed by the Venetians during the 16th century. The town was fully enclosed by fortress walls built across two islands. Peschiera del Garda is a 10 minute train ride from Desenzano. From the train station it is but a 10 minute walk to the Porta Verona gate, of the fortress entrances.
  
  The old town within the fort is beautiful but the major attractions which make this a UNESCO World Heritage Site are the Porta Verona on the north side of the town (approximately facing Verona), the Porta Brescia on the south side of the town (approximately facing Brescia), the church of St. Martino Vescovo, and the fortress buildings on the north island of the town (which is now a series of shops and museums). Informational signs dot the island to help tourists understand the history of the town.
  
  For World War I buffs it may be interesting to stop by one or more of the more modern forts which dot the surroundings of Peschiera. These forts, built by the Austrians in the 1800s, vary widely in their accessibility and state of repair, so we recommend visiting Forte Ardietti which has been converted into a museum. 

• Wander the streets of Castello di Moniga: Although not a full day trip in itself, the Castello di Moniga is worth a stop as an add-on to the hike at Rocca di Manerba. The castle can be reached from the Manerba port by walking one hour along public roads or by taking the LN009 bus from Via IV Novembre above the port. This castle is a fortification built around a small town in the 11th century to protect against Hungarian invaders. The interior of the castle is still filled with houses inhabited by locals, while the area immediately surrounding the castle has been turned into a park so that visitors can admire the walls. This stop shouldn’t take more than thirty minutes